"When I was young, when I surfed,
I surfed because Kelly Slater did it
I surfed because it was hyped
I surfed because it got chicks
I surfed because it was the party
I surfed because it got the cool car
and I got all those cool things and they all just became just - eh, just like you know - just stuff.
"But it's all about the feeling I get from riding that wave."
— Andy Irons
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